Who's Hadrian? What's the wall?
To answer this question, we have to travel back in time almost 2,000 years, to Roman Britain. The Roman Emperor Hadrian (aha!) visited Britannia in the year 122 CE on a mission to shore up the frontiers of the sprawling empire. The northern part of the island of Great Britain, known to the Romans as Caledonia, wasn’t under Roman control, so the decision was made to construct a fortification that separated imperial lands from the “barbarians”.
His wall was built over the next 6 years by an estimated 15,000 soldiers from 3 legions at a narrow point between the North Sea and the Irish Sea in modern day Northumberland and Cumbria. Most of the original structure has now disappeared - largely carried off by local people in intervening centuries to use as building material - though there are remains, sites of interest and earthworks along most of the length of it.
How long is the hike?
The Hadrian’s Wall Path - the 15th designated National Trail in England and Wales - follows the route of the ancient fortification closely, racking up 84 miles (135 kilometres) between Wallsend on the edge of Newcastle and Bowness-on-Solway on the Solway Firth in Cumbria. Most people walk it in 6 or 7 days, averaging between 10 and 15 miles a day. Overall, you’ll walk a few more miles per day - finding you accommodation at the end of the day (possibly half a mile or more away from the trail), looking for somewhere to eat, or sightseeing in the larger towns along the way. The first person to walk the full trail in modern time, William Hutton, managed to make it a 600-mile round trip, starting and finishing at his home in Birmingham!
Which way do you walk?
The wall runs east-west, cutting off the occupied southern lands from the wild north. The majority of people start on the east coast and walk west. This itinerary gets the more urban part of the walk, through the suburbs of Newcastle, out of the way early, and sees you finishing in the charming town of Bowness-on-Solway. But there’s nothing stopping you from walking the other way, especially if you’d like to keep the prevailing wind and weather (from the southwest) to your back rather than walking into it.
What do you see along the way?
The original wall was built of stone up to a height of around 3.5 metres. The upper parts of the wall have been lost now but the lower parts and foundations, or footings, have been uncovered for much of the route. As well as the wall, several large forts and smaller towers - milecastles and turrets - were built at regular intervals. Many of these have been excavated, with some turned into popular visitor attractions with reconstructions and interpretation available. Of particular interest are the forts of Housesteads, Segedunum, Vindolanda, Chester and Birdoswald, and Corbridge Roman town.
Aside from the historical landmarks, there’s the natural beauty of the route. There are a few sections (especially at the eastern end) that take you through towns or farmland, but the majority is set in an open landscape of rolling hills and ridges punctuated by proud trees. On a sad note, we should point out that the most famous tree on the route, which stood in a pass between two hills known as Sycamore Gap, was cut down in an act of vandalism days before this post was written.
Is it difficult?
The walk itself is not hugely challenging, especially compared to other long-distance hikes in the UK and abroad. So long as you plan your route according to your ability - 7-10 days for a beginner, 4-5 for an experienced through-hiker - you should have no trouble. The path is well maintained and well signposted and doesn’t include steep ascents or descents. In addition, the majority of the route avoids tarmac - a serious cause of blisters on trails that rely more on roads. Having said that, it is set in the north of England, where the weather has the potential to turn against you. Even in July or August, you’re unlikely to get a full week with no rain in this part of the country and at other times of year you can go seven days without seeing the sun. We recommend checking the long range forecast, preparing for rain, and keeping your fingers crossed.
Where do you stay?
It’s possible to walk Hadrian’s Wall in a series of day hikes, but if you don’t live in the area, you’ll want to do it all in one go. That means you’ll need somewhere to stay. It’s possible to camp along the route at designated campsites (wild camping is not permitted), but given the weather conditions that we’ve mentioned above and the spacing of suitable campsites, not to mention the extra weight of carrying the gear, most people stay in a variety of hotels, B&Bs, pubs and bunkhouses. Your exact itinerary will probably see you staying in a combination of these, as not all the options will be available at each waypoint. What are the differences?
- Hotels: The most expensive option, they offer private rooms and bathrooms, towels and other amenities and breakfasts.
- B&Bs: A bit more cosy and intimate than hotels, Bed and Breakfasts will offer you what they say on the tin, perhaps with shared bathrooms and communal spaces.
- Pubs: Many of the pubs and inns along the route have a couple of rooms upstairs in which to put up guests. The facilities will usually be similar to those found in hotels and B&Bs.
- Bunkhouses: The cheapest, most basic option. Expect a hostel for walkers, with shared dormitories and bathrooms, lockers for belongings and possibly kitchens. The beds will have basic sheets and blankets.
If you’re walking the path during the peak season - English summer holidays - we strongly recommend booking overnight accommodation in advance, unless you’re camping.
Are there toilets?
This walk takes you through one of the less densely populated areas of England, but the reality is that you’re never far from civilisation. There are evenly spaced villages along the route where you’ll find toilet facilities, as well as cafes, restaurants, pubs and shops to stock up on snacks and supplies. Between the villages, there are bushes.
What should you pack?
Not too much! Assuming you’re not camping or travelling in winter, your bag shouldn’t weigh much more than 10% of your body weight. Water and food/snacks will make up a significant portion of that, while the rest should include the following:
- A few sets of t-shirts, underwear and socks. You’ll be able to handwash as you go.
- An insulating layer for your torso or two, something like a fleece, and a pair of hiking trousers. Shorts in summer.
- Waterproof layers for body and legs, check their performance before setting off.
- Suncream, sunglasses, sun hat.
- You’ll be wearing your walking shoes or boots while on the move, bring a pair of flip flops or similar to wear at overnight stops.
- A hiking pole or two if you’re used to using them. Not essential.
- A small first aid kit.
- A charger for your phone, camera, etc.
- Water bottle.
- Small wash bag and toiletries.
- Travel towel.
- The backpack itself, ideally around 30-40 litres, with a waist strap and a waterproof cover.
Do you need a guide?
The vast majority of walkers who complete the Hadrian’s Wall Path do so without hiring a guide. The paths are well trodden, the routes are easy to follow, and you can rely on the emergency services if something goes badly wrong. The main reason you might consider hiring a guide is if you have a special interest in the history of the wall and the Roman Empire in Britain. It’s possible to find specialist guides who can explain to you the significance and context of the largest surviving Roman monument in Northern Europe as you walk, making sure that you don’t miss a thing.
What's the vibe?
It depends on what you’re trying to get out of the experience. Some people come to the wall for the history, others for the hiking, many for both. It’s probably one of the least challenging but most rewarding long-distance hikes in the UK and beyond, so you’re likely to bump into a wider variety of people here than you would on most multi day trails. The path is also known by some as “the longest pub crawl in the world” - as most evenings will see you in a traditional village inn enjoying a couple of pints of locally-brewed ale.
Whatever it is that brings you to the Hadrian’s Wall Path, come with an open mind, treat the trail, the wall and fellow walkers with respect, and leave with memories that will accompany you for many years to come.
