CONTENTS
WHY GO CLIMBING IN THE BRITISH ISLES?
Climbing’s great. The community, the physicality, the mental challenge - it’s an endlessly rewarding sport to get into. It’s convenient too - if you’re talking about going to a climbing centre, of which there are dozens in towns and cities up and down the country. Getting into outdoor climbing, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated. Good locations for rock climbing tend to be exactly where you don’t find towns and cities - wild mountains, windswept cliffs and abandoned quarries. If you don’t have a whole lot of time or money, or your own car, it can be tricky to break the barrier to sport or trad climbing. Don’t be put off, we’re laying out the most accessible climbing spots in the UK and Ireland right here so that you have no excuse to stick to artificial climbing walls.
ENGLAND
Dancing Ledge, Dorset
Southwest England has some excellent rocks for climbing, from the cliffs at Land’s End to the Tors of Dartmoor, but you don’t have to go right down through Devon and Cornwall to get the good stuff. Dancing Ledge is an old quarry cut into the Jurassic Coast, which has left cliffs of Purbeck limestone, standing almost 20 metres tall, that rise almost directly out of the water. There are over 100 routes here of all difficulties - but watch your grip on some of the more popular ones as they’ve become polished by years of use. Best of all? You can get to the nearby town of Wareham in under three hours by train from London. From there, it’s a scenic bus ride and a beautiful walk down to the sea. Alternatively, get the open-top bus from Bournemouth and across the chain ferry at the mouth of Poole Harbour.
The Peak District
When it comes to being well-connected, there are few wilderness areas in the British Isles that are easier to get to than the Peak District National Park, set mainly in Derbyshire and right on the doorstep of Manchester, Sheffield and Stoke-on-Trent. The geology of the peaks makes it perfect for novice climbers, as it’s dominated by gritstone, a very coarse kind of sandstone which is almost unrivalled for the amount of grip it provides. A good location to have a go is Horseshoe Quarry in Hope Valley. Just hop on the number 65 bus from Sheffield and you’ll be there in an hour.
WALES
Llangollen, North Wales
If you ask a seasoned climber about the best routes in Wales, they’re likely to wax lyrical about Snowdonia. We can’t deny that the national park is a wonderful place to spend time climbing, but it’s flung out on the coast of the Irish Sea, far from most population centres. That’s why we’ve chosen two locations that are much better suited to day trippers and public transport users. The first is the Trevor Rocks of Llangollen, a limestone rock face with around 150 routes and views over the ruined Dinas Bran castle and the picturesque valley of the River Dee. Llangollen is a hub for white water enthusiasts too, check out our rafting and kayaking opportunities on the River Dee.
Brecon Beacons, South Wales
Representing South Wales is the Brecon Beacons National Park. Follow one of the region’s valleys from Cardiff or Swansea and you’ll end up here, surrounded by grassy mountains and, of course, rocky outcrops. There are dozens of climbable crags in the park, with Pen y Foel standing out as a suitable site for first-timers. It’s just a short distance from a carpark, so it’s easy to carry up some crash mats and start bouldering on the upper and lower sections of exposed rock.
SCOTLAND
Dumbarton Rock, Glasgow
Set on the north shore of the Clyde estuary just 13 miles from Scotland’s largest city, Glasgow, Dumbarton is an inspiring place to visit. An 18th century castle stands on the site of a much older fortification, flanked by a huge outcrop of volcanic rock. It’s this basalt that attracts the attention of climbers. Though it’s the location of the hardest trad climbing route in the world (rated E11 for those in the know), Dumbarton Rock is a natural playground that offers routes to climbers of all abilities.
Benny Beg, Crieff
Heading up into the highlands - but not as far as Inverness, Fort William or the Cairngorms National Park - you’ll reach the market town of Crieff in Perth and Kinross. This is your jumping off point for an excellent day’s climbing at Benny Beg, a 10 metre high escarpment of dolerite - a highly prized rock among climbers. As well as the excellent friction, here you can enjoy all the sun that Scotland can offer, because the south facing rock is a natural suntrap.
IRELAND
Dalkey Quarry, Dublin
Crossing the Irish Sea, we find one of the most easily reachable climbing sites in the whole of the UK and Ireland. Dalkey Quarry is located within the city limits of Dublin, with plenty of free parking if you’re coming by car and just 10 minute’s walk from the DART railway (Dalkey Station) if you’re not. The most famous route here is called Mahjongg because it cuts straight up what looks like a smooth marble slab. Once you’re on it though, it’s an achievable climb even for those just making the transition from indoor bouldering to outdoor rock climbing.
Glendalough, County Wicklow
Glendalough is a natural paradise in the Wicklow Mountains. The name means “valley of lakes,” but it’s more famous for its well preserved ruins of a mediaeval monastic community. The natural beauty and historical significance bring out bus-loads of visitors, making it a very easy place to get to without your own transport. As a climber, you’ll want to leave the car park, the visitor centre and the tourists behind, and hike up the valley a bit. This is where you can get your hands on granite crags that take you up above the valley floor to get the best views in the area. There are single and multi pitch routes, ideal for getting used to trad climbing. We recommend getting started on Acorn Crag.
Wherever you live in the UK and Ireland, we hope that this list gives you at least one climbing spot that’s realistically doable as a day trip. Once you’ve cut your teeth (not literally) on your local crag, quarry or cliff, you’ll be ready to make longer excursions to locations such as Snowdonia, Ben Nevis or the uninhabited island of Mingulay in the Outer Hebrides. Remember, treat your rocks and wilderness areas with respect, pick a good climbing buddy and take things one step at a time. Good luck!
